NEW YORK – Using the experimental language that characterizes his firm, Spanish fashion designer Custo Dalmau described on Monday the “moment of the move” to Italy with a show full of daring garments in New York, telling EFE that he does not intend to make another move.
Under the title “Wet Paint,” Custo presented a spring-summer 2020 collection of more than 100 garments for women that stood out for their appearance and mix of materials, without overlooking pieces bearing messages such as “Good Bye,” “Je Te Quitte” (I’m leaving you) and “Carpe Diem” (Seize the moment).
“It’s a collection explaining that we’ve moved, that the operation has been in Barcelona for 39 years and we’ve signed an alliance with Velmar, of Italy, an icon in the fashion industry,” said the founder of Custo in an interview with EFE as he put the finishing touches on the show, held on Monday.
The models were outfitted in miniskirts, some of them very revealing with strips, adorned with feathers, fringes and other features, although there were also metalized “jogger” pants combined with transparent blouses.
“It’s very directed toward confident women with emotional pieces, which we think is what motivates our customers,” the designer added regarding the new collection that he recommends examining from close up because “a picture is worth a thousand words.”
The fashion house “will be managed from Italy, so it’s the time of a move,” said Dalmau, who will remain fully involved along with his brother in the development of the product and in the creative side of the business, an “important” job that he said he loves, while Velmar will “manage distribution and sales.”
Custo Barcelona’s licensing agreement with the Italian manufacturing company is a multiyear contract.
Custo, in addition, presented about a dozen pieces for men, a preview of the male collection he will soon launch, along with other items such as footwear and accessories as part of the agreement with Velmar, whose parent firm, AEFFE, also owns companies like Moschino.
Amid all these changes, Custo made clear that he wants to remain a part of New York Fashion Week and ruled out the idea that this would be his “last show” there, saying – on the contrary – that he would feel “like a fish out of water” if he were not on the scene.
“We’ve been on the catwalk in New York for 24 years. It’s like home,” he said.
“We always model in New York because it’s become an international springboard. The idea is also to present the collection in Milan,” the designer said, adding that he will not be able to personally attend that show in Italy in September but he does want to do “a show in Europe.”
When asked about the diversity of sizes and ages that have been seen in other collections during Fashion Week, Custo said that “the world is changing and fashion, too, and it’s true that the buyer has other habits.”
“The fashion industry has undergone a transformation, like most industries. We’ve always relied on creativity in our product and we’ll continue doing it that way because that’s where our big opportunity and our customers are,” he added.