NEW YORK – New York Fashion Week opened Friday full of raucous colors and volume, excessive on the extravagant catwalks of Jeremy Scott and Tomo Koizumi, more toned down in those of Carlos Campos and Vivienne Hu, and very discreet in Rag & Bone.
American Jeremy Scott made his fashion show a futuristic costume party and mixed styles from head to toe: punk-style neon wigs, animal or fantasy prints with palm trees or surfer mummies, and bright finishes.
His entertaining show, among the last of the day, brought together a multitude of celebrities in the front row, including models Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk, who posed alongside model Jon Kortajarena and rapper G-Eazy.
For next spring-summer, the designer presented a collection of mini dresses: metallic, with bulky ruffles around the neck or on the skirt; asymmetrical edges, worthy of a comic book drawing; or ironically “sexy,” covered with satin underwear.
Although with the common denominator of color and volume, a very different style was presented for the second time in the Fashion Week by the Japanese Tomo Koizumi, relatively unknown in the United States until his striking organza designs made their way to the annual exhibition of the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute.
Koizumi showed his creations in a different format: with the help of two assistants, a model was trying on designs of exaggerated silhouette and then dancing with them, gesticulating with the face and arms in a kind of theatrical performance.
With cascades of frills delicately pleated in a color palette spanning the entire rainbow, it gave the impression that the striking works of the Japanese designer – in shades of red and pink, or purple and blue – were exotic birds.
Honduran Carlos Campos offered a collection for men, driven by the bright colors of 1980s and 1990s New York graffiti, combining fuchsia pink, deep blue or turquoise green with khaki, black and white tones in fitted ensembles.
Campos remained true to the character of his brand launched in 2007 showing pieces of tailoring, a trade he learned from his father in Honduras and which as reflected in “looks” of jacket and trousers, bomber jacket, short-sleeved shirts and light coats.
Doses of volume were added by Vivienne Hu, a Chinese-born American trained at Oscar de la Renta, who dressed a woman in neutral, black and white colors, but also cheerful yellow, oranges, reds or pinks.
Hu’s pieces showed off puffed sleeves, frills and ruffles, both in shirts and in short or long dresses that highlighted the waist, sometimes with overlapping short corsets.
In a show that featured two women singing and rapping live to electronic music, the designer opted for glossy or metallic satin finishes, as well as dresses and long skirts and with movement.
The most discreet brand of the day was Rag & Bone, which returned to New York after three years with a show that matched fashion with live music, technology and dance, with a couple of dancers whose choreography was reflected on a 3D screen.
This American fashion house showcased its casual but groundbreaking style through “preppy” and “American” ensembles in the basics of white, black and red along with autumnal tones of khaki green or beige and lots of navy.
Shirts, wide V-neck sweaters, American jackets, jeans and miniskirts dominated, combined with pointed ankle boots or sneakers.
New York Fashion Week, which on Friday also featured a presentation by Telfar, continues on Saturday with shows by Taoray Wang, Christian Siriano, Brandon Maxwell and Ralph Lauren, among other well-known names from the fashion world.