PARIS – Lanvin and Kenzo closed Paris Fashion Week on Sunday with a swimming pool turned into a catwalk and a concert-collection accompanied by singer Solange Knowles.
The morning opened with Lanvin who took his guests to the northeast of Paris, almost on the outskirts, to a sports stadium with an indoor pool in Art Deco style.
The oldest firm in the French capital, created in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, continues to generate expectation around the signing of designer Bruno Sialelli, after four stormy years for the brand with the consecutive departure of three of its creative directors.
The 31-year-old was named creative director at the beginning of the year and in this second collection for Lanvin gave a glimpse of his ambition to rejuvenate the brand, with dynamic creations loaded with color.
Sialelli, who had worked with Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, has the complicated task of directing lines for men and women, usually done by two different designers.
The new Lanvin man is more sophisticated, less “grunge” and more colorful than the design Lucas Ossendrijver had created for the firm in the last eleven years.
It was displayed around a pool, where the predominant look was tailored suits, sailor jackets, long knitwear and wide straw hats.
Sialelli told the press after the showing of the spring-summer 2020 collection that he wanted to imagine young people on a trip to Greece and convey an idea of lightness: “playful garments with references to marine mythology.”
“Even the fabrics reflect that effect of roasting in the sun, riding on a boat, bags look like jellyfish. That idea of going on a trip and having to carry small items because of the limited luggage,” he said.
The collection recovered bohemian prints used in the 70s to influence the romantic character of the garments.
Lanvin also showed some women’s outfits, in the same vein as the men’s collection, with knit dresses and striped patterns.
Sialelli confessed that the first months working at the brand made him feel good but that vacations still seem like the best time of the year.
And from swimming pool to the huge multi-purpose AccorHotels Arena, which Kenzo opened to the public and filled up for the last show of its designers, Carole Lim and Humberto Leon, who left the Japanese label after eight years to devote themselves to their concept store Opening Ceremony.
Lim and Leon managed to capture the moment the industry was passing through – something that some experts define as “the democratization of luxury” – to attract the attention of a new audience with their colorful garments and embroidered sweatshirts.
Knowles, Beyonce’s sister, helped them turn the show into an event that made clothes lose the leading role it deserves.
Even so, the duo knew how to close the show with a collection full of color, with low-rise pants, shirts with sporty details, such as waterproof sleeves, shorts and a collection of sweatshirts and sports jackets.
They highlighted the orange and purple that Kenzo also used in the women’s collection, the firm presented the two lines in a single parade, which was more eighties, with sleeves laden with ruffles, crop tops with shoulder straps and high-waisted pants.
Men’s fashion closed the day with its designs for the next spring-summer, but the fashion houses will return in a few days, from June 30 to July 4, for the presentation of haute couture autumn-winter for 2019/2020.