PARIS – Three years after launching the feminist t-shirts that turned the entire fast-fashion industry into a factory of empowerment messages, Dior returned to power this Tuesday in Paris with a commercial collection that celebrates the great successes of its designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri.
“Sisterhood is Powerful,” Sisterhood is Global” and “Sisterhood is Forever,” titles from the works of American feminist poet Robin Morgan, became the new silkscreen of basic t-shirts.
As back in 2016 when “We Should All Be Feminists,” the title of a manifesto by Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie wallpapered stores and products at Dior, the emblematic firm falls for the winks of influencers.
The fashion show on Tuesday was attended by Gala Gonzalez, Dulceida, Pelayo, Anne-Laure Mais, Camille Charriere, Bryan Boy, all dressed in Dior designed by Chiuri, her porcelain prints and t-shirts with messages.
On the catwalk, the Italian woman in charge of the brand’s design since 2016, turned her attention to the “Teddy Girls,” female counterparts of the “Teddy Boys,” one of the first British subcultures, which allowed her to review the outlines of the 1950s, where the “New Look,” created by Christian Dior in 1947, was key.
This enabled her to come back to large men’s jackets, the flounced skirts and the leather jackets in typical English prints such as the two-tone punk square (black and red or black and green) or the tartan that covered suits in wool with a word of honor neckline on polo style sweaters, buttoned up to the neck.
The young Saint Laurent, who had just turned 21 at the time, took the reins of the brand after the sudden death of Dior and rejuvenated the “New Look” inspired by the alternative cultures that populated the big cities, an idea that Chiuri now takes up again.
“The alternative cultures confirm that the simple fact of choosing your clothes gives it a political dimension,” says a note distributed to the guests at the parade, which included actress Jennifer Lawrence, models Cara Delevingne and Bar Refaeli and actress Bianca Jagger.
Victoria/Tomas, made up of Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins, were also inspired by women to create their collection, although more specifically by Parisian women.
Feldman and Berzins delved into the “vintage” spirit of the capital’s shops with wide blouses, men’s military coats, mid-leg skirts, and cordoned boots, with a colorful range, rarely seen in Paris, whose citizens are famous – and rightly so – for always wearing dark tones.
Much more minimalist was the Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 line presented by Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga in his Anrealage brand with extra-large volumes and straight shapes.
On the catwalk he showed a knitted layer that is closed only by a button almost 30 centimeters in diameter, or a wool sweater that falls apart to become a dress.
Colors such as white, grey and black abounded, which also decorated exaggerated wigs made like a hat. In the invitation that the attendees received, Morinaga made his own statement of his principles: “God is in the details.”