PARIS – Fashion Week began on Monday in Paris with a day reserved especially for the protagonists of the avant-garde of design, whose vision of the clothes of the future, at least for the next autumn-winter, presented apocalyptic hints.
Deconstruction was the subject of two most recent additions to the French fashion calendar, the British brand Rokh and the Swiss-German label Ottolinger, whose style could be defined as “apocalyptic chic.”
Ottolinger fashion house showed, to the rhythm of electronic music and blinding bursts of light, around 20 models paraded with designs inspired by science fiction, with nylon tracksuit “Blade Runner” aesthetic and cocktail dresses in silks printed with completely asymmetrical cuts.
Their designers, Christa Bosch and Cosima Gadient, insisted behind the scenes that it is not a “deconstruction, but reconstruction.”
For them, this was their second show in Paris, after a debut last September which was much fresher and lighter than the current collection. The contrast is not due to a sudden blow of realism, but simply because “it was summer.”
“The idea was rather to give a futuristic touch, almost science fiction,” explained Gadient.
The creators, who graduated in 2012 from the Basel Institute of Fashion Design but still look like schoolgirls, showed classic fabrics such as knitwear and silk, combined with nylon and technical textiles, in a style where the highlights were knit dresses, low-cut on the back and new waterproof blazer, combined with wedge sandals.
“We are inspired by the unexpected, not knowing exactly what is going to happen. Because it also happens in design, you plan to create something, suddenly there is a problem and everything changes, but it can still be very beautiful,” Bosch told EFE.
Former Celine designers, Phoebe Philo and Rok Hwang two of the most eye-catching talents in the United Kingdom, made their debuts at the Paris Fashion Week this year.
Hwang launched his Rokh brand in 2016, which has attracted the interest of powerful online traders such as the Net-a-Porter platform, which already sells it among its exclusive selection.
Meanwhile, Philo took her skills to respond to the needs of a “new woman” who demands elegance and modernity represented by marked silhouettes, necklines and everything that traditionally linked sensuality to clothing.
In this new intellectual eroticism, like in the Rokh collection, extremely wide suits and English fabrics predominated, transforming skirts, braids and tops, along with a long collection of asymmetrical garments, extra-long dresses and steamy skirts that were worn, surprisingly, combined with scooters.
A year ago the Federation of Fashion and Haute Couture, the organizers of the Paris Fashion Week, decided to streamline forces and hold the numerous fashion parades in the capital (more than eighty) on seven days, instead of the nine of yesteryear.