NEW YORK – American designers Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs brought on Wednesday a patriotic touch to the New York Fashion Week, whose last day coincided with the 18th anniversary of the Sept. 11 terror attacks.
Both couturiers showcased dazzling collections that were clearly “Made in USA,” though they were quite different from one another: one had a classic feel to it and the other was somewhat quirky.
“I’m a native New Yorker and I wanted this show to highlight the strength and optimism and can-do attitude of our city,” Kors wrote on his Twitter account before the parade, in which he recreated a tree park inside a Brooklyn industrial building.
With his trademark classic and elegant style, the fashionista dressed his spring-summer 2020 collection in navy blue, beige, white and black, along with brushstrokes of green and yellow, and proposed discreet patterns of dots, diamonds, Vichy checkers, flowers and leopard.
Kors made multiple references to his country, including a chorus that belted out the classic Don McLean song “American Pie,” dresses and sweaters printed with lemons or cherries typically used in pies; the quintessentially American stripes and stars and a sweater with the word “HATE” crossed out with a line, a not-too-subtle reference to current affairs under the Donald Trump administration.
Preppy, military and nautical styles were blended with carved pieces from the 1940s, alongside slightly wide jeans, skirts and dresses with ruffles, jerseys and sweaters with sequins or studs, as well as blazers and train jackets.
Kors had the most sought-after supermodels, such as Bella Hadid – who wore an American minidress jacket – and Kaia Gerber – dressed in a jacket suit and plaid skirt on top of a flower shirt – although the parade also included plus-sized models.
Seated at the front row were Hollywood stars ranging from Nicole Kidman to Yalitza Aparicio, as well as the socialite Olivia Palermo and Vogue’s iconic editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour.
Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs remained true to his theatrical style on the catwalk and presented an unorthodox parade that stood out for its artistic freedom.
While the iconic tune “Dream a Little Dream of Me” blared through the loudspeaker – a reference to the omnipresent myth of the American dream – Jacobs proved he had given free rein to his imagination with his sets – some wearable and others beyond fantasy.
In another industrial building, this time with a parquet floor that looked like a dance studio, dozens of models marched in groups, each at their own pace, towards the audience members – who were sitting dispersedly – and walked among them while smiling and waving.
Jacobs developed many ideas for modernizing the jacket and trouser suit: some were completely covered with purple sequins, others had a brocaded finish and embroidered flowers, or masculine and plaid-printed, or pastel tones under iridescent glow (worn by Coco Rocha).
Many different dresses were also on display, including one in prairie style, some that were simple, striped and with sweater fabric; fluid and with golden sequins like an Oscar statuette; or very short, smooth and tight, worn by Gigi Hadid, who was barefoot and tiptoed.
A mini-dress with dots that wore a large-size model and another one in tunic format that a pregnant woman wore stood out, but undoubtedly the most remembered were the extravagant ones: several of them very short and with round shapes, while others were long, one covered with feathers up to the hood and another in a Victorian-lady style.
Jacobs appeared after his 70s show, characterized by his bell trousers and Twiggy make-up jumping around the audience, who applauded him as he walked around the room dressed in red heels with large platforms.