NEW YORK – The New York Fashion Week hosted on Monday a fourth day filled with contrasts that began with Carolina Herrera, whose collection evoked a dreamlike botanical garden, and ended with American couturier Tom Ford, who dressed his sensual models with a “punk” touch.
The distinctive imprint of the Venezuelan designer, who ceded her creative position to Wes Gordon two years ago, was clearly present in the firm’s parade.
The Carolina Herrera collection represented a conservative bet for surefire success following the controversy over the 2020 Cruise collection, which the Mexican government protested against because it perceived it as an appropriation of its indigenous peoples’ culture.
Celebrities such as Vanessa Hudgens and Karlie Kloss took part in the catwalk in the morning located within a diaphanous greenhouse in a garden in southern Manhattan, where the models looked like fairies out of the forest, especially when they wore delicate spring garb in soft pastel colors.
Gordon continued the legacy of the long-time Venezuelan dressmaker by resorting to the simplicity of her iconic white shirt, which he created with a rigid design and combined with long skirts or oversized “palazzo” trousers, some of them with colorful impressionist prints.
The designer reinterpreted the classic shirt by adding a lot of volume to the sleeves at shoulder height and forming a round silhouette that was also found in other pieces from the collection, such as short bolero jackets and long coats.
A light-blue dress with short sleeves and a straight drop to the feet, covered with appliques of blue and green flowers, was featured alongside a yellow dress with a heart-shaped decolletage adorned with transparent flower petals.
Hours later, Ford made the New York night his own with a surprising parade displayed inside a subtly illuminated subway station, where the most sought-after supermodels, Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber, made their appearance.
With this almost movie-like presentation, the designer gave a punk and sensual feel, not only because of the models’ crest-shaped mohawk hairstyles but also their attitude, with which they wore outfits that generally featured dark colors and sophisticated finishes.
Satin blazers provided elegance to simple outfits with shorts and shirts in fluid fabrics, as well as to elevate classic black-and-white Chinese trousers and shirts.
For the men’s designs, the couturier opted for the elegance of the suit, but with an irreverent style: the satin suits featured zebra and leopard prints in strident white, pink or green.
Another masculine look consisted of straight monochromatic leather trousers, jackets and shoes, in white and pastel shades.
During the event, the Spanish firm Custo Barcelona, with its experimental style, and the American firms Anna Sui and Alice + Olivia also presented their collection, among others, with a large presence of well-known celebrities, ranging from Sofia Richie to Paris Hilton.